Granny Square Day 2: Watermelon Square

Yay! Second square for our 13 Days of Granny Squares! This one was very fun to do. Especially as I got to the white and green.

I used Lily’s Sugar n’ Cream cotton yarn for this and a 4.5 mm hook. But you can use whatever yarn and whatever hook size you see fit. If you’re not sure, I would recommend going with the suggested hook size on the wrapper that comes around your skein of yarn.

Now, keep in mind, this square is going to be larger than the previous squares. Lastly, I can’t recommend this enough – if you can, block your squares. 

(If you need help with any of the abbreviations used, refer to my Abbreviations in Crochet page! A new tab will open for your convenience.)

Here goes!

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Watermelon Square

 

Written using US terms.

Gauge: doesn’t matter for this.

Hook Size: Any

Need 4 yarns:

• Yarn A – Red
• Yarn B – Black
• Yarn C – White
• Yarn D – Green

[Ch 3= 1 dc]

Rnd 1: Using Yarn A, make a magic ring, ch 1, sc 8, sl st to join.

Rnd 2: Switch to Yarn B; ch 1, sc in same sp, (ch 2, sc in next st); rep 7 times to end, sl st to join.

Rnd 3: Switch to Yarn A, ch 3, in ch-2 sp, 2 dc in same sp, (ch 1, 3dc, ch1); rep to end of rnd, sl st to join.

Rnd 4: Sl st to ch-1 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, (ch 1, skip 1 st, 2 dc in next st, ch 1) to end of rnd, sl st to join.

Rnd 5: Switch to Yarn B, in ch-1 sp, ch 3, ch 1, sc in same sp, (ch2, sc in next ch-1 sp) rep 15 times, ch 2, join with sl st to first sc made.

Rnd 6: Switch to Yarn A, in ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, (ch 1, 3dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1) rep to end of rnd, sl st to join.

Rnd 7: Switch to Yarn C, ch 1 in ch-1 sp, sc, (ch 3, sc, ch 3) rep to end of rnd, sl st to end of rnd to join.

Rnd 8: In ch-3 sp, ch 1, 4 sc in same sp, *(hdc, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, (tr, ch2, tr) in next sc, (3dc, hdc) in next ch-3 sp, 4 sc in next ch-3 sp ** 4 sc in next ch-3 sp, rep from * twice more then from * to ** once more, join with sl st to join rnd.

Rnd 9: Switch to Yarn D, in ch-2 sp, ch 1 *(sc, hdc, sc in corner ch-2 sp), sc in each st to corner ch-2 sp; rep from * to end of rnd, sl st to join. FO and weave in ends.

For this particular square, you may want to block it; blocking the square will straighten it out. 

 

If you have any questions, please let me know!

Granny Square Day 1: Treble Granny

The treble granny square is very similar to the traditional granny square (Scroll to the bottom of the link for instructions), only the first 3 rounds are worked in tr instead of dc. I find its better to use different colored yarns to really make the stitches “pop!” but ultimately, it’s up to you.

Just a word of caution: If you plan on using different colored yarns- when I switched the yarn, I basically started at each corner space. If you prefer to do color changes right where the round is joined, it’s a good idea to sl st until you get to the corner sp then ch 3.

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Treble Granny Square

 

Gauge: doesn’t matter for this.

Hook Size: Any

Need 3 yarns:

• Yarn A
• Yarn B
• Yarn C

[Ch 4= 1 tr]

Ch 4 and join to make ring

Rnd 1: With color
A, ch 4, 2 tr, ch 3, 3 dc, *ch 3, 3 tr, ch 3; rep from * two more times.

Rnd 2: Switch to color B, ch 4 in
ch-3 sp, 2 tr, ch 3, 3 tr, in same sp, *ch 1, (3tr, ch 3, 3 tr), ch 1; rep from * two more times, sl t to top of ch 4 to join round.

Rnd 3: Switch to color C, ch 4 into ch-3 sp, 2 tr, ch 3, 3 tr, *ch 1, 3tr, ch 1, 3 tr, ch 1, (3 tr, ch 3, 3tr), ch 1; rep from  * to end of rnd, join with sl st to top of ch4.

Rnd 4: Switch to Color B, ch 1 in ch-3 sp, *(2sc, hdc, 2sc), sc in each st to corner sp; rep from * to end to end of rnd, sl st to first sc to join.

Rnd 5: Switch to Color C, rep rnd 4. FO and weave in ends.

For this particular square, you may want to block it; blocking the square will straighten it out. 

 

 

 

13 Days of Exciting Granny Squares!

The granny square is definitely one of my favorite things to make. With it you can create a variety of different items! However, granny squares can get a little boring. So I’m kicking off “13 Days of Exciting Granny Squares!” Each granny square presented will be a variation of the “classic” granny square, so stay tuned!

For those unfamiliar with a traditional granny square, below is a pattern for how I make them.

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Traditional Granny Square

Gauge: Doesn’t matter for this

Hook Size: Any/ whatever your yarn calls for

(Written with U.S. terms)

[Ch 3 worked in rounds = 1 dc ]

Ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring

Rnd 1: Ch 3, 2dc in ring, ch2, * 3 dc into ring, ch 2 * rep from * twice, join with sl st into top of ch 3. (12 sts)

Rnd 2: Sl st to ch 2 sp, ch3, 2d in same sp,  ch 2, 3dc, *ch 1, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) into next sp; rep from * twice, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join.

Rnd 3: Sl st to ch2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3dc in same sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, ( 3 dc in ch-2 space, ch 2, 3 dc), ch 1; rep from * three more times, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3 to join.

Rnd 4: Sl st to ch 2 sp, ch3 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, 3dc in next sp, ch 1, (3dc, ch 2, 3 dc), ch 1; rep from * thre more times, sl st to top of ch 3 to join rnd.

Rnd 5: sl st to ch-3 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, * ch 1, 3dc in next sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, (3dc, ch 2, 3 dc), ch 1; rep from * three more times, l st to top of h 3 to join. FO and weave in ends.

Joining Yarn: The Russian Join

“Yari, how do you join your yarn?” I’ve been asked this question time after time! Honestly, it’s one of my favorite questions because joining yarn can not only be difficult but weaving in those ends from the joins can also be tedious and can easily be the difference between work that looks sloppy and works that looks clean and well done.

My favorite method of joining yarn is the Russian Knot or the Russian Join. I’ve seen both terms used. For the purpose of this post we’re going with Russian Join (RJ). Though it can look a little confusing at first, this method is easy to do! It also means that you don’t have that ugly bulge from joining your yarn with an actual knot. This also means that your yarn won’t slip and come loose. Bonus!? NO WEAVING IN ENDS, YAY!

To do this, you need a large, blunt needle for yarn (whatever you use for weaving in those pesky ends), yarn, and a pair of scissors.

How to do a Russian Join:

1. Thread your  yarn needle with your current color.
2. Weave your needle through the yarn. Pull the needle and tail through the yarn and remove the needle. Make sure that there is a loop at the top.
3. Thread the needle with your new yarn. Pass the needle and yarn through the loop in your old yarn.
4. Weave the needle through the new yarn just as you did with the old yarn. Pull the needle and tail through the yarn and remove the needle.
5. Pull both yarn tails taut, closing the loops where the ends of the yarn meet.
6. Cut the tails of the yarn, then continue working!

 

Spruce Up Those Fleece Blankets!

Don’t have time to make an afghan, but really, really want to use your crochet skills? 

 

A great alternative is to purchase either fleece fabric or a fleece blanket and add a crochet trim. It’s surprisingly easy to do and you need very, very few supplies. In fact you can usually do this with less than a skein of yarn (if you’re only using one color). Before I realized that folks really did this, I knew that my Mama Abuela used to make these really pretty crochet trim borders around burp cloths or bibs. I believe she used lace crochet thread.She gifted them for new babies and I have to say they were absolutely stunning! I had the pleasure of watching her make these when I was a little girl. Years, later this still fascinates me! Unfortunately, I don’t have the patience to deal with thread. But, I do love yarn very much.

These are really simple to make! Just click below to see how:

Decoding Crochet Patterns: US/UK Conversions

Hello again everyone! I realized that on my Reading Crochet Patterns post, I touched on US patterns vs UK patterns. Every country has its own dialect, and patterns are no different! The terms the US uses are certainly a bit different than the UK. But! I don’t think that should stop anyone from creating a fantastic pattern if it’s written using another country’s terms.

In the spirit of “sharing,” below is my conversion chart on simple terms between the US and UK. Hopefully this helps you hook your way through a pattern you just HAVE to create, even if its written in different terms than you are accustomed to!

US → UK

Chain (ch)→Chain (ch)

Single crochet (sc) → double crochet (dc)

double crochet (dc) → treble crochet (tr)

half-double crochet (hdc) → half treble crochet (htr)

Treble crochet (tr) → double treble crochet (dtr)

Slip stitch (sl st) → slip stich (sl st)

As you can see, the terms and abbreviations are quite different, so it is important to understand what kind of pattern you are reading! Very few are similar, and this can avoid quite a lot of frustration if you know what exactly you are reading! Luckily, most patterns will state if they are written in US or UK terms!

Decoding Crochet Patterns: Let’s Read A Pattern!

At some point or another, we’ve all come across a pattern for the first time and been like…. “What in the world am I supposed to do with that?!” Well, don’t get discouraged. Though a pattern may look intimidating for the first time, they are not all that difficult to decode.

Patterns are written in a form of shorthand, using abbreviations for various stitches. It would be a good idea to become familiar with abbreviations used for crocheting. Click the link to view my list of abbreviations! Please keep in mind that US patterns and UK patterns have different forms of shorthand. I will be using the US version. What “language” the pattern is written in is important to pay attention to! A double crochet in the US is called a treble crochet in the UK – so this may cause some confusion if you’re familiar with US terms and follow a UK pattern.

Personally, I believe that understanding the abbreviations is the key to reading a pattern. Once you know what they mean, reading a pattern will be a breeze!

So, let’s pick up those lovely hooks, get your yarn ready, and I’ll “translate” a pattern for you!

** Please be aware, I’ve translated the pattern how I read it to myself while crocheting. We will be making a pretty simple square — It’s the first thing I was taught to crochet, so I figure it would be a great way to get beginners started on their pattern reading!

Decoding Crochet Patterns: Understanding Stitch Gauges

Welcome to my “Decoding Crochet Patterns” series! I’ve been thinking a lot about how overwhelmed I felt when I first tried to read patterns and wanted to take the frustration out of crochet patterns for beginners. So, tag along with me on this wonderful little journey on how to read (or as I call it, Decode) crochet patterns. 

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The easiest part of crochet patterns is the supply or material list (at least in my opinion). You will almost always see a line indicating the gauge for your project. When you do, you might lean back, squint, then scratch your head and think, “What the $&@! is a stitch gauge?!”

Well, have no fear!

A stitch gauge is a square which will help you achieve the correct amount of tension to ensure that your project is the correct size when completed. Below is an example of what you may see in a pattern:

“Gauge: 13 dc and 7 rows = 4 in“

Basically, what this means is that there should be 13 double stitches per row and 7 rows in your swatch. Both of which should measure 4 inches to create your 4″ x 4″ square. It is important to not only pay attention to the gauge but the hook size as well. Let’s say our hypothetical pattern called for a 5mm hook, then we would attempt to create our square with that recommended hook size. If you notice that you have too few stitches, then you would go up a hook size (and continue going up) until you reach the correct amount of stitches per inch and vice versa, if you notice that you have too many stitches per inch, you would go down a hook size (or two or three).  **Please keep in mind that not all stitch gauges for patterns will be for a 4″ square. I have seen some that are different sized squares.**

13 double stitches per row = 4 inches.

So, at this point, it looks like we have the correct amount of stitches per inch, but not the correct height. What do we do then? My suggestion is to make your loops a tad bit looser so that they are taller. What I really like about creating the square for gauges is that you can see how to work the tension for your project. Consider it “practice!”

7 rows = 4 inches

Now… For the big question: “Do I really have to do this?” No, of course not. But you should! Why? Everyone crochets differently. Some of us crochet tightly, some more loosely than others. Because we all crochet differently, simply following the instructions, unfortunately, is not enough to make your finished project the right size. Although patterns give you a hook size to use, consider it simply a recommendation. You adjust hook size as necessary to achieve the correct gauge and therefore the correct size for your project. (I find I have to go up a size because I crochet very tightly). In the end, it is up to you to make sure you do everything that you can to ensure your patterns ends up the right size. If you choose to ignore the gauge on a pattern, then it is your fault that your project is too small or short and perhaps not the designer’s.

Hopefully this helps clear up the mystery of stitch gauges in crochet!

Graphghans?!

While there are a lot of resources online and “How-To” sites dedicated to crochet, I find that finding information on graphing is relatively light. If it is, available, I feel like there is always a huge chunk missing to really explain how to do it… Especially for newbies like me. I feel like I can crochet just about anything, but have never tried a graphghan as it’s always seemed beyond me.

So… I bucked up… Took a deep breath… And got to researching and figuring it out!

Sites I found most helpful with information on this technique were [I will be linking you directly to the page with their info on graphing for convenience]:

• The Crochet Crowd – They have an excellent post on how to create graphs for crocheting.
• Yarn Hookers – This site has an entire series on creating graphghans, color transitions, and reading graphs. I highly recommend reviewing their website if you want to learn this technique.
• My Photo Stitch – Free website to create graphs out of photos.

Overall, I absolutely loved all the information provided by The Crochet Crowd and Yarn Hookers. I also got on youtube and just did a search for how to create graphghans, and spent several hours watching.

Of course, I decided to go with something a little more difficult, instead of a simple shape. Go big or go home, right?! My boyfriend is a HUGE gamer and thus spent hours fussing over logos and images from various games and he finally settled on Final Fantasy VII — making a special request for something made with that on it.

Original Image:

 

FVII Logo

Image Rendered by My Photo Stitches

FVII Pixelated Image

When I get a little further, I will update on my progress with the afghan!

I hope this information is a little more helpful and can provide a little more direction on how to tackle a project like this.