Decoding Crochet Patterns: US/UK Conversions

Hello again everyone! I realized that on my Reading Crochet Patterns post, I touched on US patterns vs UK patterns. Every country has its own dialect, and patterns are no different! The terms the US uses are certainly a bit different than the UK. But! I don’t think that should stop anyone from creating a fantastic pattern if it’s written using another country’s terms.

In the spirit of “sharing,” below is my conversion chart on simple terms between the US and UK. Hopefully this helps you hook your way through a pattern you just HAVE to create, even if its written in different terms than you are accustomed to!

US → UK

Chain (ch)→Chain (ch)

Single crochet (sc) → double crochet (dc)

double crochet (dc) → treble crochet (tr)

half-double crochet (hdc) → half treble crochet (htr)

Treble crochet (tr) → double treble crochet (dtr)

Slip stitch (sl st) → slip stich (sl st)

As you can see, the terms and abbreviations are quite different, so it is important to understand what kind of pattern you are reading! Very few are similar, and this can avoid quite a lot of frustration if you know what exactly you are reading! Luckily, most patterns will state if they are written in US or UK terms!

Decoding Crochet Patterns: Let’s Read A Pattern!

At some point or another, we’ve all come across a pattern for the first time and been like…. “What in the world am I supposed to do with that?!” Well, don’t get discouraged. Though a pattern may look intimidating for the first time, they are not all that difficult to decode.

Patterns are written in a form of shorthand, using abbreviations for various stitches. It would be a good idea to become familiar with abbreviations used for crocheting. Click the link to view my list of abbreviations! Please keep in mind that US patterns and UK patterns have different forms of shorthand. I will be using the US version. What “language” the pattern is written in is important to pay attention to! A double crochet in the US is called a treble crochet in the UK – so this may cause some confusion if you’re familiar with US terms and follow a UK pattern.

Personally, I believe that understanding the abbreviations is the key to reading a pattern. Once you know what they mean, reading a pattern will be a breeze!

So, let’s pick up those lovely hooks, get your yarn ready, and I’ll “translate” a pattern for you!

** Please be aware, I’ve translated the pattern how I read it to myself while crocheting. We will be making a pretty simple square — It’s the first thing I was taught to crochet, so I figure it would be a great way to get beginners started on their pattern reading!

Decoding Crochet Patterns: Understanding Stitch Gauges

Welcome to my “Decoding Crochet Patterns” series! I’ve been thinking a lot about how overwhelmed I felt when I first tried to read patterns and wanted to take the frustration out of crochet patterns for beginners. So, tag along with me on this wonderful little journey on how to read (or as I call it, Decode) crochet patterns. 

---

The easiest part of crochet patterns is the supply or material list (at least in my opinion). You will almost always see a line indicating the gauge for your project. When you do, you might lean back, squint, then scratch your head and think, “What the $&@! is a stitch gauge?!”

Well, have no fear!

A stitch gauge is a square which will help you achieve the correct amount of tension to ensure that your project is the correct size when completed. Below is an example of what you may see in a pattern:

“Gauge: 13 dc and 7 rows = 4 in“

Basically, what this means is that there should be 13 double stitches per row and 7 rows in your swatch. Both of which should measure 4 inches to create your 4″ x 4″ square. It is important to not only pay attention to the gauge but the hook size as well. Let’s say our hypothetical pattern called for a 5mm hook, then we would attempt to create our square with that recommended hook size. If you notice that you have too few stitches, then you would go up a hook size (and continue going up) until you reach the correct amount of stitches per inch and vice versa, if you notice that you have too many stitches per inch, you would go down a hook size (or two or three).  **Please keep in mind that not all stitch gauges for patterns will be for a 4″ square. I have seen some that are different sized squares.**

13 double stitches per row = 4 inches.

So, at this point, it looks like we have the correct amount of stitches per inch, but not the correct height. What do we do then? My suggestion is to make your loops a tad bit looser so that they are taller. What I really like about creating the square for gauges is that you can see how to work the tension for your project. Consider it “practice!”

7 rows = 4 inches

Now… For the big question: “Do I really have to do this?” No, of course not. But you should! Why? Everyone crochets differently. Some of us crochet tightly, some more loosely than others. Because we all crochet differently, simply following the instructions, unfortunately, is not enough to make your finished project the right size. Although patterns give you a hook size to use, consider it simply a recommendation. You adjust hook size as necessary to achieve the correct gauge and therefore the correct size for your project. (I find I have to go up a size because I crochet very tightly). In the end, it is up to you to make sure you do everything that you can to ensure your patterns ends up the right size. If you choose to ignore the gauge on a pattern, then it is your fault that your project is too small or short and perhaps not the designer’s.

Hopefully this helps clear up the mystery of stitch gauges in crochet!